Black Friday, Fast Fashion and the Cost of Constant Consumption
Section: Fashion
The University of Applied Arts Vienna is set to showcase a remarkable exhibition titled 'Textile Transfers', highlighting the contributions of two pioneering female textile artists, Rosalia Rothansl and Mileva Stoisavljevic-Roller. The exhibition opens on May 1 and runs until July 15, 2025, at the University Gallery located in Heiligenkreuzerhof.
Rosalia Rothansl (1870-1945) and Mileva Stoisavljevic-Roller (1886-1949) exemplify the evolution of women's roles in the art world during the early 20th century, particularly in the context of the formerly male-dominated Kunstgewerbeschule, which is now known as the University of Applied Arts Vienna. Rothansl was one of the first women in Europe to hold a professorship, where she taught textile techniques to notable students including Friedl Dicker-Brandeis and Vally Wieselthier. Stoisavljevic, on the other hand, was trained as a graphic artist and enamel artist at the same institution and was actively involved in the Secession movement, contributing to influential publications such as 'Die Fläche' and 'Ver Sacrum'.
This exhibition marks the first time that the works of both artists will be presented together, drawing from their respective textile collections preserved within the university's art collection. These collections comprise an array of colorful, handcrafted garments and fragments, featuring region-specific patterns woven, embroidered, or lace-made in various rural areas across Central and Eastern Europe, including Bohemia, Moravia, and Galicia, as well as pieces originating from South and East Asia.
The mid to late 19th century saw a growing interest in what was termed 'folk art', linking the collections of Rothansl and Stoisavljevic to figures like fashion designer Emilie Flöge. 'Textile Transfers' seeks to explore the complex ways in which both artists utilized textiles as sources of artistic inspiration and cultural artifacts. The exhibition will not only reflect Rothansl's teaching methods and the significance of her collecting practices but will also delve into the photographic representations of Stoisavljevic's collection, showcasing reform dresses and examining her connections with the Klimt group.
Furthermore, the exhibition will investigate the role of these collection objects in constructing national identities and the evolving dynamics of gender relations during the reform of applied arts around 1900.
The University of Applied Arts Vienna stands as a leading international institution, hosting around 2,000 students from 90 countries across 30 disciplines within eight institutes. It integrates arts and sciences with design and architecture, fostering innovative inter- and transdisciplinary approaches that address societal transformations and future challenges.
Exhibition Details:
Location: University Gallery of the Applied Arts
Address: Heiligenkreuzerhof, Schönlaterngasse 5, 1010 Vienna
Duration: May 1 - July 15, 2025
Opening Hours: Wednesday to Saturday, 2 PM - 6 PM, Free Admission
Curatorial Team: Eva Klimpel, Stefanie Kitzberger
Overall Management: Cosima Rainer
Key Dates:
Press Tour: April 30, 2025, at 11 AM (Registration: isabella.pohl@uni-ak.ac.at)
Exhibition Opening: April 30, 2025, at 6 PM
For more information, please visit the university's press page.
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